Parish Closes, museums and a beach

We have visited a number of parish closes (enclos paroissiaux) over the last few days, inland in between seaside places. These are opulent walled enclosures surrounding a church and other religious buildings and monuments, mostly 15-17 C. We have seen seven so far: St Thégonnec, Guimiliau, Lampaul-Guimiliau, La Roch Maurice, La Martyre,, Sizun and Pleyben. The museum at Guimiliau is excellent at explaining how these small villages had the wealth to construct such elaborate places, sometimes hiring famous artisans from far afield (e.g. Antwerp), and why they did it.

Essentially, local merchants held wealth from linen and tanning trades as well as being granted permission to holding important markets and fairs which brough in revenue. They were motivated to strengthen the counter-reformation while at the same time re-enforcing the particular Breton version of Catholicism, involving a certain folksiness (my description) and incorporation of myths and stories as well as a big focus on superstition around death. Also, however, these merchants were keen for their own daily lives, and that of their community, to be reflected in the art they commissioned, as well as the usual Christian repertoire. This means these places are interesting from a social/economic history point of view as well as being impressive artistically and culturally. There are also a surprising number of exotic images (e.g. a monkey at La Roche Maurice; an Egyptian-style mummy at La Martyre; a mermaid-type figure at Sizun).

Stunningly, at La Roche Maurice which is the earliest (15th C) parish close we have seen, as part of the painted rood screen there is an image of what our volunteer guide pointed out as a “North American Indian”. Apparently this was incorporated in the design, which also includes many animals, mythological and earthly people as well as saints and apostles, following the tales told by sailors who had returned from cross-Atlantic expeditions and had come across the indigenous people. Thus even in 15th C inland rural Brittany there was some awareness of the people who lived on the other side of the Atlantic. Appealing though it may be, I take this story with a pinch of salt. Identifying this image with one that became familiar centuries later seems much more likely. S/he could easily have been a local older woman in a Breton lace hat. Here is my photo of it so you can form your own opinion.

A detail of some of the many characters included in the Cavalry at St Thégonnec.

A mermaid at Sizun

The Guimiliau museum covers many perspectives on the creation, development, preservation and impact of the parish closes, including some self-reflection on the development of tourism associated with interest in Breton culture (from elsewhere in France and the UK) in 19th-20th C. Altogether excellent. https://www.ciap-enclos.fr/en/

Another good multi-perspective museum is the Port-Musée at Douarnenez. which is both a museum about boats and about the fishing industry (rise and fall of sardine fishing and processing), and also an outdoor opportunity to view and visit various boats of different types, including a sardine fishing boat. Other perspectives include that provided by a temporary exhibition documenting the history of alcohol (huge quantities of imported Algerian red wine) – again the rise and fall – in the lives of Breton fishermen. http://www.port-musee.org/

And back on the beach here is a stunner that we walked across yesterday on our way between Camaret and Pointe de Penhir on the Crozon peninsula: